FROM THE SOURCE

Champagne Paul Goerg

By Ann Hafstrom
“ The finest experiences are rooted in place, season, and patience.”

Is there a flavour, ingredient or sensation you associate strongly with a particular landscape, climate or environment?

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There are definitely tastes that immediately transport me. Chalk is one of them, more a texture than a flavor, perhaps, but it brings me straight back to the Champagne region. That minerality, combined with a certain brightness, always evokes cool climates, open landscapes and that very particular light you find there.

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Do you think people experience a product differently depending on where it comes from?

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I do think people experience a product differently depending on its origin, even if they’re not always consciously aware of it. There’s something embedded in a product, climate, soil, culture, that comes through in subtle ways.

Has seasonality changed the way you think about taste or the way people consume today?

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Seasonality has, in some ways, become both more appreciated and more abstract. People talk about it more, but they don’t always live it.

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At the dinner, though, there was a real sense of alignment, the richness of the Wagyu, the freshness and structure of the champagne. It felt anchored in a moment, rather than interchangeable.

What do we lose when everything becomes available all year round?

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When everything is available all year round, I think we lose a form of anticipation. That sense of rhythm, of looking forward to something, is part of how we build memory and desire around taste.

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Without it, experiences can feel flatter, even if the quality is still there.

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Do people still know how to wait for things today?

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I’m not sure people really know how to wait anymore, at least not collectively.

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But when they are given the opportunity to slow down, like during that dinner, something shifts. There’s more attention, more presence.

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What part of the process around champagne simply cannot beaccelerated?

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With champagne, time is the one thing you can’t compress. The ageing, the evolution in the cellar, these are processes that resist acceleration.

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You can guide them, but not rush them without losing something essential.

What part of this work do people rarely understand?

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I think what people often underestimate is the quiet precision behind it all. Champagne can feel effortless when you drink it, but it’s the result of countless small decisions, a lot of patience and a deep understanding of both nature and technique.

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Do certain traditions around champagne or taste feel more fragile today?

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Some traditions do feel more fragile today, especially as production scales or expectations shift.

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But at the same time, there’s also a renewed interest in authenticity and craftsmanship, which gives me a certain optimism.

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What taste or smell instantly takes you somewhere else?

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The smell of freshly baked brioche always takes me somewhere, perhaps because it’s also a note you sometimes find in aged champagne.

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It’s warm, comforting and layered with memory.

Westholme Wagyu

by Augustin Pelletier
A signature Australian Wagyu — rooted in land, lineage, and slow time.
“Great beef is built slowly.”